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Watered silk is a textile which has a moire pattern, a rippling pattern created by lines which are superimposed on each other. The name is a reference to the appearance of the pattern which is when well- made, watered silk resembles a body of water with small waves trembling in a breeze.

To make watered silk, woven silk cloth is passed through giant rollers. The calendering process crushes the fibers of the silk. Silk which has been passed through rollers will have a rippling pattern which resembles a large series of water stains. The pattern is set by starching and the resulting fabric can feel ridged or rough. The pattern of watered silk can be damaged if it is crushed or mishandled, so watered silk garments should be handled and cleaned carefully. Some silk painters work with watered silk, sometimes painting or dyeing the silk before calendering to create a disrupted pattern that looks like it is shifting underwater.

Watered silk is often used to make women’s gowns, but it can also be used in drapes, fabric wallpapers and other ornamental textile features. In a flowing gown or jacket, watered silk can look quite stunning. Watered silk is used to make flowing draped garments or tight bodices which showcase the figure of the wearer. It may also be embroidered or beaded for extra effect and each garment will look slightly different due to the unique calendering process.

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